While I sip rum at a beach bar on the north-west coast of Mauritius, the mixologist inadvertently sets fire to his blowtorch. He dances away, flames spouting everywhere, assuring us: 'All is fine, all is good! What's life without a little drama?'
What indeed? Last time I came to Mauritius the entire week was spent on a sun lounger, doing nothing more than watching the waves flop in and out. I was missing something.
Simply stunning Grand Baie
Mauritius is renowned as honeymoon central but there is so much more to this island in the Indian Ocean, off the coast of Africa. I get talking to a 50-something couple at the bar. Their first trip to the island was their honeymoon (of course it was); then they brought their children. 'Now the grandchildren come too. We all love it.'
Mauritius as multi-generational family-friendly holiday? I can see their point. The island is notably safe. It regularly tops the tables as the most peaceful country in Africa with a strong economy, generally good standard of living, and a stable political climate.
People are uniformly friendly and welcoming. There's nothing poisonous here; even the sharks are kept at bay by the reef that hugs the island.
Walking on the beach at the Beachcomber Trou aux Biches resort, on the north coast, I wish I'd come here when my son was small.
Sitting in 35 hectares of tropical gardens facing a stretch of lagoon, it has the kind of kids' club that simply didn't exist when my son was young: free for children aged three to 11, open from 9am right through until 11pm, and packed with wholesome fun activities.
The woman on the next sun lounger admits she and her husband hadn't intended to park their two in it quite so much, but a couple of hours of child-free sunbathing often stretches into sundowners and then, yup, adult-only suppers. Hey, no judgment.
Outside the resorts, Mauritius feels strangely familiar. Cars drive on the left; the road signs and layout are firmly British and English is spoken widely alongside French. Yet palm trees line the streets, sandy-coated dogs loll in the puddles of shade; breeze block churches stand next to Hindu temples with pastel spires in Iced Gem colours. It's as if Kerala has come to Surrey.
All beaches are public and everyone has a favourite. I fall in love with the wild expanse of Le Morne in the south west with its dramatic backdrop of Unesco World Heritage site, Le Morne Brabant, a basalt mountain dotted with caves used as shelters by runaway slaves in the 18th and 19th centuries.
Snorkelling the reef is pure Finding Nemo with stripy brightly coloured fish and the occasional turtle, all within doggy-paddle distance of the beach. I hop on a speedboat and shoot out over the reef with a sheer 'whoop' of adrenalin-fuelled joy. The driver kills the engine and we bob quietly, necks craned. Dolphins and even a whale have been seen recently.
Spotting dolphins in the clear warm waters
'There!' A fin breaks through the cobalt water. 'Go! Go! Go!' shouts our guide and there's a scramble into the water, a mess of fins and snorkels. They're fast, these bottlenose dolphins, twisting and swerving. More boats appear, pursuing the pod like a pack of paparazzi in full cry after a celebrity. There are rules about engaging with wildlife but, as we motor away from the melee, we're told not everyone follows them.
Further north, the beaches are busier and buzzier, edged with grass and trees, and dotted with street food vans. Mauritius is an easy-going blend of cultures, each bringing its own flavours - from French to Chinese, African to Indian.
Beachcomber Royal Palm
The vans are a must-try for dishes such as dholl puri (curry filled pancakes); boulettes (dumplings); and gato pima (deep fried chilli bites). Mauritius isn't just one big beach though: it has five mountain ranges with beautiful waterfalls and dense forest - hiker heaven. I take a trip to the Ebony Forest, where conservation work preserves the native trees and protects endangered species.
The ebony trees are less dramatic than I'd expected but, as we pause at a viewing platform, I spot a huge fruit bat hanging in a tree. A little bright green gecko poses on a wall. Striking and welcoming - it's a great combo.
I end my stay at the famous Royal Palm, another Beachcomber property, just outside the bustling town of Grand Baie.
Sunset catamaran cruise
On the final evening I take a sunset boat trip - a romantic cliche but that's fine. As the sun starts its sudden plunge into the silver ocean, I take a glug of champagne and toast this friendly country, which offers such a welcome respite from our dreary British winters. And a great choice for honeymooners, too, of course.
First published in the Daily Mail - November 2024
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