South
Africa's Garden Route may not be the longest of the world's famous drives - but
none are more scenic than the 190 miles between Mossel Bay in the Western Cape
to Storms River in the Eastern Cape.
After
touching down in Port Elizabeth, we drove to our first stop - the 61,000-acre
Shamwari Game Reserve, which focuses on conservation sustained through tourism.
The day starts at 5am at Shamwari, with a morning drive to spot any animals
that might still be active from the night before.
Visit the V&A waterfront and have dinner looking onto Table Mountain
On the lookout
We were
delighted to see a leopard and lion on our first drive, and during the course
of our stay, our ranger was able to sniff out the Big 5 - lion, leopard,
rhinoceros, elephant and buffalo - with ease.
When
you're not out searching for animals, the tented lodges provide luxury, each
containing a plunge pool, wood-burning stove and indoor and outdoor showers.
Though
the early start is a shock, the safari schedule does allow for lunches and
dinners, and a welcome sundowner on the final drive of the day.
Observing
the animals at close hand was a moving experience. Seeing the elephant herd was
particularly memorable, with two baby elephants playing among the bushes. We
were also lucky enough to see a pride of lions on our night drive.
The Robberg Nature Reserve offers excuisite views
Next stop... Plett!
After
three nights it was time to move to our next destination. We drove for three
hours to Plettenberg Bay, a seaside town with fine restaurants and outdoor
activities. We stayed at the extremely comfortable tenroom Lairds Lodge.
Next
day we hiked along the Robberg Peninsula. The national park provides three
routes, depending on your fitness levels.
Plettenberg
has a good selection of fish restaurants and our favourite was Fat Fish, which
had great sushi and local specialities.
Our
journey continued to the wine region around Franschhoek. This area became a
wine-making centre following the arrival of French Huguenots and vineyards dot
the landscape as far as you can see.
The
French influence is notable, particularly when it comes to food. We stayed at
La Petite Ferme, a restaurant with rooms. Our suite looked out over the valley
and it was a treat each morning just to draw back the curtains.
One
of the most enjoyable ways to experience the different estates is to take the
wine tram. Each vineyard offers a generous sampling selection and you can buy
cheese or snacks at most of them.
In
the hills of Franschhoek, Mont Rochelle is a great place to walk off those
calories.
We
ate dinner at a new Indian restaurant called Marigold, which was one of my
favourite meals of the trip. It was paired with craft beer from a nearby micro-brewery.
The beautiful town of Knysna is a must-see
Beautiful Cape Town
We
ended our South African adventure with a stay in Cape Town. The natural setting
is unforgettable with Table Mountain overlooking a long stretch of coastline.
Our hotel was on the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront – a great base from which
to explore.
Table
Mountain had to be experienced (by cable car not climbing!) - and we gazed out
from the flat summit alongside a group of dassies. They look like giant
hamsters, but in fact are closely related to elephants. How can that be?
Robben
Island is another mustsee. The former jail provides an emotional insight into
apartheid and the struggle political prisoners faced. It's possible to see the
cell of the most famous inmate, Nelson Mandela.
Back
in the city, the District 6 museum also highlights the cruelty of apartheid.
Enjoy sipping wine at any of the amazing wine farms in Franschoek
While
modern-day Cape Town recognises the hardships of its past, it is also a
confident city. There is world-class food and wine to savour and two favourites
were the Chefs Warehouse and the Pot Luck Club, which has 360-degree views of
Cape Town (and the best fish sliders).
For
dinner with a view, Dash on the V&A Waterfront is hard to beat. As we
strolled back to our hotel by the waterfront, we reflected on two incredible
weeks spent exploring South Africa. Like the dassies lying on the top of Table
Mountain, we'd basked in the warmth of South African culture.
First published in the Mail Online - September 2018
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