MENU
FIVE questions
you should
ask ...
CALL US
Speak to one of our travel
experts within 5 rings
020·7962·9933

Which of these is important to you?

  • Concierge style service. Your own dedicated travel manager who'll look after you until you travel.
  • Better value. Exclusive fares you won't find online to save you money.
  • 24 hour helpline. A worldwide team just a phone call away if you need help while you're overseas.
  • 98% rate us excellent. More highly rated than our competitors with 98% saying they'd book again.
  • Risk free. Fully licensed with Client Trust Account to protect your money. ABTA, ATOL protected.

Your calls always answered within 5 rings.

x
Read the reviews? Call us now on 
020·7962·9933
Tell us what you need. We'll find you a solution
Spain Offers 21
Spain Reviews 2758
Spain Hotels 1682
Spain Villas 26
Spain Paradors 36

Basque Beauty!

Like a mini-Rio, San Sebastián is a feast for the eyes and a feast for the tastebuds, as Martin Symington discovered...

Reaching the top of a twisting trail through the forests of Monte Urgull, I suddenly saw why the city below is sometimes compared with Rio de Janeiro.

From the rocky crest, a giant statue of Christ opens his arms, blessing San Sebastian. At his feet lie golden scallops of urban beach, sandwiched between green pinnacles rising from a vast natural harbour.

This is the setting for the Basque city on the Bay of Biscay, chosen (jointly with Wroclaw in Poland) to be European Capital of Culture 2016.

It is hard to ignore the twinkling of Michelin stars in Spain's foodie capital – that's what the city is known the world over for. More about the grub in a moment, but I was here to taste some of the other cultural delicacies of San Sebastian, or Donostia as it is known in the Basque language.


San Sebastian is famed for its mouthwatering pintxo, seen here at Bar Zeruko


The seaside town has been attracting cultured sophisticates ever since the Spanish royal family made it their summer base in the 19th century. Alluring art nouveau hotels and mansions soon became the rivals of fellow Basque resort Biarritz across the French border but just 20 kilometres away.

Since the Fifties the cream of Hollywood have been drawn here by the annual September film festival, which is artier and more compact than glitzy Cannes, according to the cognoscenti. And for half a century the July San Sebastian jazz fortnight has been drawing grandees of the music world.

The length of the city's coast is fringed by a boardwalk, starting at the surfers' Zurriola beach, then skirting the Urgull peninsula headland to La Concha bay, which must rank as one of the world's top urban beaches.

The esplanade rounds a horseshoe of golden sand more than a mile long, facing dark green Santa Clara islet. As I strolled along, the stirring echoes I felt of Rio's Copacabana beach amplified as I neared the rearing Monte Igueldo headland.


Monte Igueldo headland at the end of a sweeping bay


The old quarter, I found, is as walkable as the sea-fringe. A grid of narrow streets pedestrianised from noon onwards (after the vans delivering food have gone), is relieved by open spaces such as Plaza de la Constitucion, where windows have seat numbers dating from when the square was used as a bullring.

There is a neo-Gothic cathedral and some fine, older churches. However, the way to observe the town's purest religion is to eat. Pintxos – the version of tapas that Basques take to dizzy heights of delicacy – are the order of the day (and night).


Visually appetising and elaborate San Sebastian pintxo


People swarm to sniff out morsels of edible art including dishes such as chipirones en equilibrio (squid, patterned with caramel filigree).

As I tried to walk off my gastronomic indulgence by hiking up Monte Urgull, I concluded that the Rio-like panorama was as visually appetising as the most elaborate San Sebastian pintxo.



First published in the Daily Mail - July 2016

More articles below...

For more inspiration, read what travel writers have to say...

Falling for Formentera

Ibiza's neighbour - but quiet and chic, as Mark Palmer discovered

Art and paella in vibrant Valencia

Jeremy Clarke falls in love with a wonderful city

Dining in Palma

Sarah Gilbert savours the delights of Palma on a plate

Vibrant Valencia

Is this cultural treasure house Spain's finest seaside city? Michael Hodges gives his verdict...

Soulful Mallorca

Kate Amey reports from the luxurious Jumeirah Port Soller Hotel and Spa

The Marbella Club

The Spanish resort is still full of panache, as Mark Palmer discovered

Sparkle at the Ritz-Carlton Abama

Anne Murray takes a lingering look at a hotel of unabashed luxury

Back to Mallorca

Fiona Hardcastle returns to a clifftop gem

I just adore a parador

From magnificent castles to luxurious converted convents, Dave Balow takes a tour

Weekend in Seville

This Spanish city is perfect for a short break

Marbella meditation

On a fabulous health break Carol Driver finds a luxury spa

Twin cities

Connect two fascinating cities by train on a European mini adventure

Why you'll adore these paradors

Paradors are the shining stars of the Spanish hotel scene says Dave Balow

Perfect paradors

Jeff Mills discovers former palaces and monasteries that feature spellbinding architectural touches

The perfect Balearic isle

Will Hide hires an e-bike and discovers Formentera's turquoise seas and laid-back vibe

Not quite what you're looking for?
We can easily customise an offer to suit your exact requirements

x