In the summer of 1842, a traveller from London wrote a letter describing his first transatlantic visit. It talked in glowing terms of one particular city, describing its 'giddy heights; its citadel suspended, as it were, in the air; its picturesque steep streets and frowning gateways; and the splendid views which burst upon the eye at every turn'.
That smitten tourist was none other than Charles Dickens. And the subject of his affection? The old capital of New France: Quebec City.
Today it remains every bit the dazzler that Dickens described. Just walking its chattering streets - past antiquated stone houses, proud spires and secret squares - feels like stepping on to the pages of a historical romance. It's a backdrop so enchanting that it's frequently voted among the most beautiful cities on the planet and is protected as a World Heritage Site by Unesco.
And British travellers can easily follow in Dickens' flabbergasted footsteps, as direct flights from London to the so-called 'Paris of North America' are now available with Canadian airline Air Transat.
Wander around the streets of Old Qubec
At the heart of this city's appeal is its walled core, Old Quebec, with twisting alleyways, welcoming cafes and colourful boutiques. Split into Upper and Lower Towns on the banks of the St Lawrence River, it feels charmingly out of place and time - as if it belongs in the Loire Valley of the 18th Century and not here, 90 miles north of the modern US border.
Canadians are notoriously friendly, but the Quebecois elevate amiability to an entirely new level. They're infused with a joie de vivre that's hard to find anywhere else in the world.
Many residents I meet identify as Quebecois first and Canadian second - a sentiment underscored by the Quebec flags fluttering across Old Quebec which outnumber the Maple Leaf by at least five to one.
Centred on a blue and white cross, it's reminiscent of Scotland's Saltire - and the independence movement has followed a similar path here too. Despite sizeable separatist sentiment, the last referendum (in 1995) delivered a narrow victory for those wishing to stay part of a united Canada.
Away from the underbelly of politics, Quebec City has a genuine claim to being one of the most camera-friendly places. At its heart is the world's most-photographed hotel: the Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac.
Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac
This towered and turreted grande dame looms gracefully over Old Quebec from a rocky bluff which is one of the most popular places in Canada to pop the question. According to Diane Gauthier, its head concierge, they average a proposal a week, all while hosting an endless flow of weddings, honeymoons and anniversaries.
Quebec City doesn't just look good, it tastes good too.
In Canada, the loftiest culinary award is AAA Five Diamonds, and out of only four restaurants to have made it to that level, two of them are here, in the nation's undisputed dining capital.
Be sure to try the Laurie Raphael restaurant
Both - the inventive Taniere³ and immaculate Laurie Raphael - are worth the trip alone, but there are plenty more affordable options clustered within the city walls. Most notably, the reimagined indigenous fare at Restaurant Sagamite and the legendary tableside flambe at Le Continental.
Once you've eaten your fill - be that a multi-course tasting menu or a steaming bowl of poutine (Canada's feel-good national dish, consisting of fries, squeaky cheese and rich gravy) - then you're in the perfect place to walk it off.
The pretty Rue du Petit-Champlain
Explore the pretty Rue du Petit-Champlain, with its parade of artisanal stores, art galleries and fudge shops; the Rue Sous-le-Cap under the cliff face, with its jaunty balconies and bistros; or even hipster-friendly Saint-Roch, a ten-minute stroll outside the old walls and home to a collection of bars and microbreweries.
There are plenty of traditionally romantic cities in North America, from Napa to Newport, but none have the consummate fortified charm, the easy walkability and the universal conviviality of Quebec City.
Whisper it, but the Paris of North America is far friendlier than the Paris of Western Europe.
This is a place for lovers, certainly. But also for lovers of history, lovers of art and lovers of good food. Not to mention lovers of beauty. I'm with Charles Dickens.
First published in the Mail on Sunday - May 2023
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