At just after 11pm on September 8 last year, the High Atlas Mountains of Morocco were struck by an earthquake measuring 6.8 on the Richter scale - the strongest to hit the North African kingdom in 120 years.
Nearly 3,000 people died, 19,000 homes were destroyed and 60,000 suffered significant damage. The worst effects were in mountain villages, but buildings were even felled 45 miles away in Marrakech.
Also badly affected was the Kasbah Tamadot, Sir Richard Branson's boutique hotel in the foothills of the High Atlas.
Sir Richard Branson at Kasbah Tamadot
'I've seen pretty much everything - hurricanes, fires, earthquakes, diseases, you name it,' says Sir Richard. 'My approach is that the next day I get out a big sheet of paper and plan out how we can come back better and stronger than before. As long as you think positive, you can put these things behind you.'
And so it has proved when I arrive for the official reopening of this former Berber fortress, dating to the early 20th century.
The Virgin boss, who is now 74, purchased Tamadot in 1998 on the instructions of his formidable mother, Eve, who fell in love with the place when her son was on one of his ballooning adventures in Morocco. 'She would have disowned me if I'd said no,' he says.
Perched on a promontory less than an hour's drive from Marrakech, the decor takes its inspiration from the Berber people - nomads who came in from the Sahara and ruled here before the Arab conquest.
At 4,330ft above sea level it sits at a similar height to the summit of Ben Nevis, so hardly nosebleed territory. But the air is thin and clean and the temperature a few degrees lower than in Marrakech - a blessing in high summer.
Keeping up with Sir Richard is no easy task. As he marches through the Kasbah at a military pace, we are left trailing in his wake. By the time you reach him at one location, he's already yomping off to the next. The main fortress is a series of interconnected castellated towers, built around a square, open courtyard.
Fabulous views from the hotel pool
There are rounded Islamic arches, elegant water features and a roof terrace for those who wish to dine al fresco.
To the rear are expansive grounds with an infinity pool, two restaurants and plenty of nooks and crannies.
There are secluded Berber 'tents' with sun terraces looking down into a steep river valley, and six traditional riads with three bedrooms, private pool and roof terrace.
I'm billeted in one of the tents, which are considerably more sumptuous and certainly more solid than anything the Berbers could have imagined. It's a driver and full nine-iron distance from the main reception, so nicely tucked away.
The riads and impressive high-ceilinged Asayss restaurant (formerly a cowshed) have been added since the earthquake. Only the library was irreparable, and that has been converted into an arched internal courtyard with reflection pool.
Scented rose petals float on the Reflecting Pool
Sir Richard invites a group of us to join him on a bike ride - but I peel off and take a more sedate mountain walk with a guide, Abdul. We meet up at Imlil, a town comprising 12 Berber villages about 20 minutes' drive up from Tamadot.
Looking down into the valley from 6,500ft, the effects of the earthquake are still clearly visible. There are obvious gaps where houses once were. 'Only about 60 houses were destroyed here but almost all suffered cracks,' Abdul says. 'We are just about getting back to normal.'
Imlil is the base for hikers, mountain bikers and climbers. From here we can see the upper slopes of Mount Toubkal, at 13,670ft, the highest peak in North Africa. If you have three days to spare and some climbing experience, Abdul will guide you to the top.
Sir Richard has, of course, scaled it. After all, he has looked down on Everest from a hot-air balloon, plumbed the deep ocean trenches and travelled by rocket to the edge of space.
The late Eve Branson loved Kasbah Tamadot
But Tamadot is his passion project, and Eve Branson, who died from Covid-19 complications during the pandemic, adored this place. Her influence is plain to see still today - she set up local schools to teach English and crafts such as weaving and embroidery, providing skills and employment.
Tamadot is not cheap, and there isn't a lot to do outside if you aren't the hiking or biking type. But two or three nights of pampered luxury within a broader holiday taking in Marrakech and perhaps Essaouira, three hours away on the coast, would be a proper treat.
Sir Richard was one of the first to arrive after the earthquake, providing tents, food, water and other aid to the affected villages.
'I think of this community as family,' he says. It shows - and his mother would be delighted.
First published in the Mail on Sunday - November 2024
More articles below...
BACK TO TOP
