04 May 2024

 

South Africa

We offer a wide choice of cheap flights to South Africa together with South Africa hotels, tours and self-drive itineraries.


Come into the garden

South Africa's coastline boasts big game, great beaches and fine wines - as well as a national park recognised as one of the finest floral kingdoms on earth, as Steven Porter discovers.

South Africa - Plettenburg Bay South Africa - The winelands South Africa - Tsitsikamma National Park

1 Plettenburg Bay 2 The winelands 3 Tsitsikamma National Park

WHEN WE SURVEYED 15 winter sun destinations Cape Town came out way on top.

With overnight flights in both directions and no jetlag, the city alone, with its eyeball-popping setting, mountains outside the back door and gorgeous beaches at the end of every other road, is worth visiting even for a weekend.

But if you have a week or more you can fully enjoy the Cape’s rich pleasures. Most heading there will combine four or five distinct holiday experiences - the city, fabulous beaches, a safari, a drive along the Garden Route and the world’s most attractive winelands.

South Africa remains a bargain, with main dishes in the fanciest restaurants less than £10 and wine about £5 a bottle. Step down a touch in style and you can have three courses for your tenner and find plenty of good B&Bs for £25.

So here’s our perfect week in the new down under. It starts in the Eastern Cape and finishes with the city, flying into Port Elizabeth via Johannesburg and home non-stop from Cape Town. Or you could easily do the trip in reverse.

The Garden Route

The name is misleading, as much of the Garden Route is no more than the M2 at home. It’s not about gardens as we think of them, but take a side road down to the sea and you’ll see what all the fuss is about.

Tsitsikamma National Park is the real garden on the Garden Route. It’s the last remaining patch of the indigenous forest that once covered the narrow corridor of flatland between mountains and sea (most was felled by early Dutch settlers for furniture and boats). Here you can see more species of tree than in the whole of the northern hemisphere, broken by meadowy interludes of native fynbos, a carpeting of scrub and wild flowers botanists classify as one of the earth’s seven floral kingdoms (the Cape is the smallest but richest of these, with 8,500 species).

Follow the signs to Storms River Mouth. The road twists and buckles towards the sea, which you first smell, then hear, as it pounds against the rocky shore. Then the foliage draws back to reveal the Indian Ocean. The next point of land due south is the bottom of the earth.


You can swim from the tiny beach, walk to the suspension footbridge over the mouth of Storms River (90 minutes there and back) and eat in the park restaurant (main courses about £5). You could also float in a fat black rubber tube down the river, one of several that cut through the coastal plateau in a series of spectacular gorges.

Next stop is Plettenberg Bay, South Africa’s Cote d’Azur. The town is a tutti-frutti confection on an escarpment above the long white beach and azure sea.

Two hotels share top billing. The Plettenberg has views of the bay, the mountains and even of whales frolicking in the breakers. Dinner, worthy of a Michelin star, costs little more than £40 for two including wine.

Knysna

The hip retreat is The Lodge on the Bay, a contemporary boutique hotel with a spa, pool and a tranquil restaurant. One of the best B&Bs is Bosavern, above Plettenberg Bay with great views.

Knysna (the K is silent) has been voted South Africa’s favourite town. The big attraction? Oysters. Sample homefarmed ones at the Oyster Company, £3.50 for six.

Allow time for a round-trip excursion to the Featherbed Nature Reserve, on one of the two crab-claw headlands that enclose the lagoon. The trip includes a boat ride, climb by trailer to the top and gentle walk down to a beach for lunch.

You could, if you’re fed up with driving, leapfrog from Knysna to Cape Town by dropping off the rental car and stepping aboard the Outeniqua Choo Tjoe steam train, all glinting brass, wooden carriages and billowing steam. It goes by causeway across the lagoon like a whistle-wailing apparition and hugs the coast before cutting inland to George. Two trains a day run in each direction (no service on Sunday), and the journey time is about 2hours 30mins; from George, there are several flights a day to Cape Town.

Meanwhile, back on the road, the old whaling station of Hermanus has done an ecological U-turn, becoming Africa’s leading spot for whale-watching.


A short distance from town, Grootbos is a private nature reserve where the emphasis is on flora. It was described by David Bellamy as ‘the best example of conservation biodiversity I have seen’.

The Winelands

A tour of the Winelands is not just about wines and vines, but also about old Cape Dutch architecture, gabled estates and stunning scenery. Groot Constantia, the oldest, grandest estate, and Klein Constantia, whose wine was served by Louis XIV at Versailles, are extremely taster friendly. At most vineyards, you pay about £2 to taste a selection of six. The Winelands are best explored by spending a day following one of the mapped and sign-posted routes. I’d suggest driving out to leafy Stellenbosch, a 40-minute run (also linked by train to the city) or to even prettier Franschock.

Most estates serve lunch, maybe as a picnic on shaded lawns, sipping chilled whites.

If you can find an extra night, spend it here. Le QuartierFrancais, in Franschoek, has an award-winning restaurant and 15 rooms. More economical is Dorp Huis in Stellenbosch, with old-fashioned charm.

As the airport is on this side of the city you might want to make the Winelands your last stop. A 20- minute drive from check-in, Spier has a superb buffet lunch, which you can enjoy on a big terrace under the oaks. It’s a great spot for families - lots of space for running around, as well as a couple of pet cheetahs to make up for any missed on safari.

0330·100·2220i 0330 calls are included within inclusive minutes package on mobiles, otherwise standard rates apply. X 0330 calls are included within inclusive minutes package on mobiles, otherwise standard rates apply. X
 
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