EATING IN
CUBA

Our guide to the secret paladares of Cuba...

Food in Cuba is generally dire and you don’t go there for a culinary experience. Those in the know seek out the paladares, small private restaurants in people’s homes.

This was Castro’s big mistake. When Russia turned away from Communism and switched off the cash which propped up the regime Castro realised they needed tourist dollars and allowed locals to set up private eating places.

Entrepreneurial spirit lurks just below the surface in a Communist country and these mini restaurants flourished. Realising his mistake Castro tried to tax them out of existence and official guides are banned from mentioning them.

They are only meant to have seating for 12 people but many are far larger. They are officially banned from serving lobster or beef but both are usually available if you call in advance. Here is our guide to this secretive network. We recommend phoning ahead for a reservation.

La Guarida

La Fontana

La Cocina de Lilliam

Dona Carmela

La Casa

Esperanza

San Cristobal

Sol y Son

Estela

On the top floor of Calle Concordia 418 between Gervasio and Escobar. You’ll never find this without a taxi. Don’t be put off by the dilapidated entrance it really is worth walking up all the stairs to the top. The food is good and the paladar featured in Tomas Gutierrez Alea’s best known film Fresas y Chocolate. Definitely book in advance.
(Tel: 866 9047)

In Miramar, about 10-15min by taxi from the old town. Just off 5a Avenida and 60th. The official address is Calle 3ra.A,esquina 46, No 305. In a walled garden with fountains. It serves good food with some interesting specialities (we ate grilled octopus in pesto and red snapper in seven year old rum) and has a reasonably extensive menu and seats around 40 people.
(Tel: 202 8337)

Also in Miramar at Calle 48,number 1311, between 13 and 15. This paladar is in a lush walled garden, has good food and an extensive menu and wine list. It is not always open so call in advance.
(Tel: 209 6514 or mobile (+53) 5292 5754)

This is the smallest of the paladares we recommend in Havana with seating for just 20 and a more limited menu. It’s in a picturesque walled garden near the fort and a five minute taxi ride from the old town. At 9pm you’ll hear the cannon go off in the fort which is a tradition left over from the 18th century when the British briefly occupied Havana. Comunidad No 1, Casa 10, Morro-Cabana, Habana del Este.
(Tel: 867 7472)

La Casa is a restaurant run by three generations of the Robaina family in a California style house serving authentic Cuban food plus a range of International dishes, such as Spanish tapas, Italian pastas, Japanese sushi, French pastries. Ask for the table where Matt Dillon, Diego Maradona and the former president of Panama have eaten.
(Tel: 881 7000)

In the heart of Miramar you’ll find the Esperanza which has been serving a range of international dishes in its art deco style dining room for almost 15 years. Try their speciality tuna lamb washed down with a good choice of wines. If you ever meet Jodie Foster you can compare notes as she’s eaten there too.
(Tel: 202 4361)

For eclectic decor you can’t beat San Cristobal on San Rafael. Choose between the sunny patio and the art nouveau interior. Owner and chef Carlos Cristobal Marquez learned his trade overseas cooking in Brazil, Mexico, Milan and Madrid and the international inspired menú reflects this.
(Tel: 860 1705)

This has just 12 seats and a limited choice of menu. Most probably a choice of red snapper or pork together with something like pumpkin and rice. Expect to pay around £12 for two including a bottle of local wine. If you are staying at the Iberostar Hotel walk towards Calle Simon Bolivar. When you hit this street the paladar is at 11 O’Clock. It has a carved wooden sun sign above the door.

Another small but good value paladar. This is also in Simon Bolivar but in the section going uphill from the main square. We have not eaten here but we understand it is very similar to the Sol y Son.